Tile Buying Guide

The Complete Tile Buying Guide for Ontario Homeowners

Sol Farahmand

Key Takeaways

  • The ratings on the tile box tell you more than the tile itself does. Frost resistance, PEI, slip resistance, colour body, and shade variation all affect how a tile performs in a specific room. Checking them before you buy takes two minutes and can save you a costly redo.
  • Porcelain belongs on floors. Ceramic belongs on walls and feature backsplashes. Ceramic is softer, less dense, and designed primarily for vertical surfaces. Using it on a busy floor is one of the most common tile mistakes in Ontario renovations.
  • The Mohs scale and PEI rating measure completely different things. Mohs measures scratch resistance. PEI measures how well a tile holds up to foot traffic over time. A tile can score high on Mohs and still not be rated for floor use.
  • Cheap porcelain tile rarely stays cheap after installation. Poor stain resistance, imprecise edges, thinner bodies that crack, and low slip resistance all create costs that far exceed whatever was saved at the till.
  • Finish affects both how a tile looks and how it performs. Lappato, matte, polished, satin, and sugar glaze each behave differently under light and underfoot. The right finish depends on the room, the light, and how the space gets used.
  • For backsplashes, the right tile depends on whether you want it to stand out or blend in. Subway tile, mosaic, encaustic, large format, and porcelain slabs each serve a different design purpose. Knowing which one fits your kitchen before you shop saves a lot of back-and-forth in the showroom.

Buying tile in Oakville, Burlington, Mississauga, or anywhere else in Ontario involves more decisions than most homeowners expect. There is the look. There is the material. There is where the tile is going and what it needs to handle once it is there. And there are the ratings on the side of the box that most people skip entirely.

Every one of those decisions affects how the tile performs over the next ten to fifteen years. A tile that looks right in the showroom but carries the wrong PEI rating, the wrong slip resistance, or a body that is too thin for the application will create problems that a better choice would have avoided entirely.

This guide pulls together everything worth knowing before you buy tile: what the ratings mean, the difference between ceramic and porcelain, the two hardness scales that often get confused, what separates a quality tile from a cheap one, the five main tile finishes and where each one works, and the five backsplash options worth considering for an Ontario kitchen. Work through each section and you will go into the showroom knowing exactly what to look for.

What the Ratings on the Tile Box Actually Mean

The box a tile comes in carries several ratings. Most homeowners look at the size and the colour and move on. The ratings are where the real information is.

Frost Resistance

Frost resistance tells you whether a tile can survive repeated freeze-thaw cycles without cracking. A frost-resistant tile has been tested to absorb water, freeze, and thaw without breaking down. A non-frost-resistant tile absorbs moisture into its body, and when that moisture freezes and expands, the tile cracks from the inside out.

In Ontario, freeze-thaw cycling happens throughout late fall and early spring. Temperatures drop below freezing overnight and rise above during the day, sometimes in the same week. Any tile going on an exterior surface, a patio, front steps, a garage floor, or a pool surround, needs to carry a frost resistance rating. There is no exception to this in a Canadian climate. For outdoor tile installation in Oakville or anywhere in the GTA, frost resistance is the first rating to check.

PEI Rating

The PEI rating measures how well a tile holds up to foot traffic over time. It runs from 1 to 5. According to the Tile Council of North America, the body that sets installation and product standards across North America, each class corresponds to a specific use case.

PEI 1: Walls only. No foot traffic.
PEI 2: Very light residential use, such as a bathroom with soft footwear only.
PEI 3: Regular residential floors. Kitchens, hallways, living rooms.
PEI 4: Heavy residential and light commercial use. Busy kitchens, entryways, mudrooms.
PEI 5: Heavy commercial. Restaurants, offices, retail spaces.

The most common mistake is installing a PEI 1 or PEI 2 tile on a floor. Both can look identical to a floor tile on the shelf. A PEI 1 or PEI 2 tile on a busy residential floor will show visible glaze wear within one to two years. Always check the rating before purchasing for any floor application.

Colour Body vs Non-Colour Body

Colour body tile has pigment mixed all the way through the tile during manufacturing. If it chips, the chip blends in because the core matches the surface. Non-colour body tile has a coloured glaze over a differently coloured core. A chip on a non-colour body tile exposes that core and shows clearly as a contrast.

For floor tiles in high-traffic areas, colour body is the more forgiving choice over time. For wall tiles and backsplashes where chips are rarely a factor, the distinction matters much less.

Slip Resistance and the R Value

The R value measures how much grip a tile surface provides. It runs from R9 to R13. A higher number means more texture and more grip underfoot. The Tile Council of North America recommends a minimum Dynamic Coefficient of Friction of 0.42 for any interior floor walked on when wet. In practical terms, that aligns with an R10 or higher rating.

R10 is the minimum for bathrooms, kitchens, shower floors, and any outdoor tile surface. Do not judge slip resistance by how a tile looks. A smooth polished surface can still carry an R10 rating because the grip comes from microscopic surface texture. Check the number on the box. For bathroom renovations in Oakville or any wet area in the GTA, the R value is the rating that affects safety most directly.

Shade Variation (V Rating)

The shade variation rating tells you how much colour and pattern variation to expect between individual tiles. It runs from V1 to V4.

V1 (Uniform): Tiles are consistent from piece to piece. Clean, predictable result.
V2 (Slight variation): Minor differences between tiles. Overall look is consistent.
V3 (Moderate variation): Noticeable differences. More natural-looking result.
V4 (Substantial variation): Significant differences in colour and pattern between tiles.

Neither end of the scale is better. V1 suits modern and minimalist spaces. V4 suits stone-effect, wood-effect, and handmade-look tiles where variation is part of the design. For V3 and V4 installations, a skilled installer will mix tiles from multiple boxes during layout to distribute the variation evenly across the floor.

Mohs Scale vs PEI Rating: Two Different Things

These two ratings both appear on porcelain tile spec sheets and are frequently confused with each other. They measure completely different properties.

What the Mohs Scale Measures

The Mohs scale measures how resistant a tile surface is to scratching. It runs from 1 to 10. Porcelain typically sits between 6 and 8, putting it harder than most everyday objects in a home. Keys, coins, and furniture legs generally sit below 6. A tile with a Mohs rating of 6 or above resists scratching from those objects under normal use.

A higher Mohs score is particularly relevant in rooms where grit and sand get tracked in. Fine debris acts like sandpaper underfoot. A harder tile surface handles that kind of abrasion better than a softer one over time.

What Mohs Does Not Tell You

The Mohs scale only measures scratch resistance. It does not measure how well a tile handles being walked on repeatedly over months and years. A tile can have a Mohs rating of 7 or 8 and still carry a PEI rating of 1 or 2, meaning it is only rated for wall use. A high Mohs score does not make a tile suitable for a floor. That is the single most important thing to understand about the relationship between these two ratings.

Use the Mohs rating to understand surface hardness. Use the PEI rating to confirm the tile is rated for the surface you are installing it on. Both numbers matter. Neither one replaces the other.

Ceramic vs Porcelain: Which One Belongs Where

How They Are Made Differently

Both ceramic and porcelain start with clay. The difference is in the clay type and the firing temperature. Ceramic uses a coarser clay body fired at lower temperatures. The result is a softer, more porous tile. Porcelain uses a finer, more refined clay called kaolin, fired at significantly higher temperatures. That produces a denser, harder tile with a water absorption rate of less than 0.5 percent, which is the technical threshold that defines porcelain under industry standards.

Density affects almost every performance characteristic. A denser tile scratches less easily, absorbs less water, resists staining better, and wears down more slowly under foot traffic.

Porcelain for Floors

Porcelain is the right choice for almost any floor application. The hard, dense body handles daily foot traffic without wearing through the glaze prematurely. It resists moisture, handles grit tracked in from outside, and holds up to the conditions of a busy Ontario home over the long term.

Porcelain also comes in a rectified version, meaning the edges have been precisely cut after firing. Rectified tiles can be installed with very tight grout joints, sometimes as narrow as 1.5mm to 2mm. Fewer grout lines means less maintenance, fewer stained lines, and a cleaner finished look. For kitchen renovations in Oakville or bathroom renovations in Hamilton, porcelain is consistently the more reliable floor choice.

Ceramic for Feature Walls and Backsplashes

Where ceramic wins is design variety. The softer clay body accepts glazes, relief patterns, hand-painted designs, and layered finishes more readily than porcelain. On a backsplash or feature wall, slip resistance and wear resistance do not apply. What matters is how the tile looks and how well it holds up to occasional splashing and cleaning.

For a kitchen backsplash in Oakville or a bathroom feature wall where you want a bold or textured tile, ceramic often gives you options that porcelain does not at the same price point. Textured subway tiles with a handmade look, bold colours in unusual formats, and relief patterns with depth and shadow are all areas where ceramic leads. For a backsplash installation in Burlington where the priority is a distinctive look, ceramic is often the smarter material choice.

The simple rule: floors get porcelain. Feature walls and backsplashes get whichever material gives you the look you want, and ceramic often wins on variety.

Why Cheap Porcelain Tile Costs More in the Long Run

Budget porcelain tile cuts corners in ways that are not obvious in a showroom. Those shortcuts show up later in cleaning time, repair bills, and replacement costs.

Poor Stain Resistance

Quality porcelain tile is finished with a high-grade nano sealer that fills the microscopic pores in the tile surface and resists staining. Budget tiles are often finished with a weaker version of this sealer. The difference is invisible in the store. It becomes visible after six months of exposure to cooking grease, bathroom products, and hard water mineral deposits.

Ontario has hard water in many areas, particularly in communities drawing from Lake Ontario. On a well-sealed tile, those deposits sit on the surface and clean off easily. On a poorly sealed tile, they penetrate the surface and become increasingly difficult to remove over time. The ongoing cleaning cost is higher than it would have been with a better product.

Imprecise Edges and Wider Grout Joints

Budget tiles are often pressed and fired at lower temperatures, producing less precise edges. This type of tile is called a pressed tile. Less precise edges force wider grout joints during tile installation in Mississauga or anywhere else, because the variation in tile size has to be absorbed somewhere. Wider grout joints mean more grout surface collecting dirt and grime. A floor with wide, stained grout lines within a few years is one of the most common complaints from homeowners who bought budget tile.

Thinner Bodies That Crack

Budget porcelain tile tends to be thinner than quality tile. A thinner tile is more likely to crack under point loads like a chair leg or a dropped object, and more vulnerable to cracking from substrate movement over time. When a floor tile cracks, it rarely stays as just one tile. The same conditions that cracked one usually affect the neighbouring tiles too.

Replacing cracked tile is labour-intensive. Worse, matching the replacement to the original is not always possible due to dye lot differences between production runs. You may end up replacing a full section of floor rather than a single tile, which is a significantly larger job.

Poor Slip Resistance

Budget tiles often have poor slip resistance because the surface texture and finish that create grip add cost to the manufacturing process. A tile that looks fine on a showroom floor can become a slip hazard once installed in a bathroom or kitchen exposed to water regularly. Replacing bathroom or kitchen floor tile because of inadequate slip resistance means a full demo and reinstall, a cost that far exceeds whatever was saved at the shelf.

The Five Main Tile Finishes

Two tiles made from the same material can look and feel completely different based on the finish alone. Getting the finish right matters as much as choosing the right tile.

Lappato

Lappato is a semi-polished finish that sits between matte and fully polished. Fine grooves across the surface catch and scatter light in a way that neither a flat matte nor a mirror-like polished tile can replicate. Under natural light, the surface has a distinctive depth and movement.

Lappato works well in spaces with good natural light, living rooms, open-concept kitchens, and hallways where the light interaction plays out through the day. The partial texture gives it slightly better slip resistance than a fully polished tile, making it more practical for floor use than a high-gloss finish. The grooves can collect dirt over time, so regular cleaning is part of the maintenance picture.

Matte or Natural Finish

A matte finish absorbs light rather than reflecting it. The result is a flat, even appearance with no sheen. Matte finishes offer the best slip resistance of any finish on this list, making them a reliable choice for bathroom floors, kitchen floors, and any space where water and wet feet are a regular factor.

Matte also handles bright rooms better than polished tile. In a south-facing room with strong afternoon light, a polished floor creates glare. A matte floor absorbs that light and keeps the room visually comfortable. The trade-off is that matte tile can show grout haze and cleaning product residue if not maintained properly. Use a pH-neutral cleaner and avoid wax-based products.

Polished Finish

Polished tile goes through a series of polishing wheels during manufacturing, producing a smooth, high-gloss, mirror-like surface. The reflective finish picks up wall colours, ceiling height, and light sources. In the right space, that reflection adds depth and makes the room feel larger.

Polished tile is most commonly used on walls and feature surfaces. On floors, it shows footprints, water marks, and dust readily, and offers less grip than matte or lappato tile. In a busy kitchen or a bathroom that sees daily shower use, maintaining a polished floor takes consistent effort. For homeowners who want the look of polished tile on a floor without the maintenance, lappato or satin finish often delivers a similar visual result with better practical performance.

Satin Finish

Satin finish is close to matte in appearance but with a noticeably smoother feel underfoot. It has a very low sheen, not the flat quality of matte and not the high gloss of polished. The closest comparison is the feel of a smooth stone worn down by water over time.

Bathrooms and kitchens are the strongest use cases for satin finish tile. These are rooms where people walk without shoes regularly. The smooth surface feels good underfoot while still offering better slip resistance than polished tile. Satin also sits in the background visually, letting other elements in the room carry the design. It is one of the easier finishes to maintain, cleaning well without specialist products.

Sugar Glaze Finish

Sugar glaze is made by mixing two different types of granules on the tile surface before firing. One type catches light and the other does not. The result is a surface with a textured, slightly sparkling quality that looks like coarse sugar under light. It is one of the most visually distinctive finishes available in porcelain tile.

Sugar glaze performs well in bright spaces where light plays across the surface throughout the day. The granule texture also provides reasonable slip resistance, making it a workable choice for floor applications where you want texture and character without a fully polished or patterned tile. It is not as widely available as matte or polished finishes, so confirm availability before planning around it.

Five Kitchen Backsplash Options Worth Considering

The backsplash sits at eye level, spans the most visible wall in the kitchen, and ties together countertops, cabinets, and the overall look in a way nothing else does for the square footage it covers. Choosing the right tile for it matters.

Subway Tile

Subway tile has been around for over a century and still appears in more Ontario kitchen renovations than any other backsplash option. It works in almost every kitchen style because it is simple and does not fight with the rest of the room. The layout and grout colour do most of the work.

Running bond is the classic layout, but herringbone, stacked bond, and vertical stack all use the same tile to completely different effect. White subway tile with white grout almost disappears into the wall. The same tile with dark charcoal grout becomes a feature. If you like the format, look at slightly larger sizes or a handmade-look finish rather than the standard white 3×6, which has been in every new build and rental renovation in the GTA for over a decade and now reads as a default choice.

Mosaic Tile

Mosaics come in glass, natural stone, porcelain, ceramic, and metal. They come in small squares, hexagon shapes, irregular organic pieces, and pre-assembled patterns on mesh backing. No other category offers the same design variety in one product type.

Where mosaics work best is as a feature. A bold mosaic behind the range, surrounded by a simpler field tile on the rest of the wall, creates a focal point without overwhelming the space. The installation requires an experienced hand. Small tiles on mesh backing need careful grouting to avoid smearing into the tile faces, particularly with glass or polished stone. Make sure the installer you hire has specific experience with mosaic work.

Encaustic Tile

Encaustic tiles were originally made by hand, with pigments pressed into clay before firing. Today most encaustic-look tiles are made from porcelain or cement, but the handcrafted character is still visible. Slight colour variation between tiles. A matte, almost chalky finish. Geometric or floral patterns that feel grounded and warm rather than sharp and digital.

In a kitchen, encaustic works best as a feature element rather than a full-wall treatment. A strip across the backsplash, or a focused section behind the range flanked by a simpler field tile, becomes a design moment without dominating the room. This is the tile for a kitchen that wants a point of view. Farmhouse kitchens, Mediterranean-influenced spaces, and kitchens with warm wood cabinetry are natural fits.

Porcelain encaustic-look tiles eliminate the sealing requirement of cement-based versions while keeping the same visual character. For a kitchen backsplash, porcelain encaustic is usually the more practical choice.

Large Format Tile

Large format tile means tiles 12 inches or larger in at least one dimension. The main benefit is fewer grout lines, which means a cleaner visual result and a surface that is easier to maintain. In a modern or transitional kitchen, large format tile can make the backsplash read almost like a continuous surface rather than a tiled wall.

If the rest of your kitchen is already doing a lot visually, large format tile is one of the most effective ways to keep the backsplash from competing with it. Available in porcelain and ceramic in a wide range of finishes, including marble-effect, concrete-effect, and stone-effect variations that bring texture and depth without the maintenance demands of real natural stone.

The installation consideration is the substrate. Larger tiles are less forgiving of uneven walls. A wall slightly out of plane creates lippage, where tile edges sit at different heights. An experienced tile installer in Burlington will assess wall flatness and address any substrate issues before setting tile.

Porcelain Slabs

Porcelain slabs run in wide panels, often 48 inches or wider, sometimes covering the full distance from countertop to upper cabinets in a single piece. The result is one continuous surface with no grout lines and no visual interruption at all. This is the backsplash option for homeowners who want everything to read as one unified surface.

Porcelain slabs pair naturally with quartz or stone countertops. Veined porcelain slabs that mimic marble can flow from the countertop up the wall in a way that makes the two surfaces look like one material. The material is dense, non-porous, and resistant to staining, moisture, and everyday cooking activity. Maintenance is minimal because there is no grout to seal or replace.

The installation is more technically demanding than standard tile. Panels this size require specialized lifting equipment and precision cuts around outlets and windows. Installer selection matters more with this option than with any other on this list.

Conclusion

Buying tile well comes down to matching the material to the application and understanding what the numbers on the box actually mean before you commit. Porcelain on floors. Ceramic where design variety matters more than durability. Frost resistance for anything going outside in Ontario. The right PEI rating for the room. The right R value for wet areas. A tile body and finish that suit how the space actually gets used.

The finish shapes how the tile looks and feels every day. The backsplash option you choose sets the visual tone for the whole kitchen. And cutting corners on tile quality at the shelf almost always creates a more expensive problem after the tile is down.

If you are planning a tile installation in Oakville, Burlington, Mississauga, or Hamilton and want to talk through any of these decisions before you buy, contact Canadian Tile Pro for a quote. We will help you choose the right tile for the right surface and make sure the installation is done correctly from the start.